A Fractured Fairytale

 

Using my basic 18^th century pattern and the riding habit in Patterns of Fashion as a guide, I fitted a pattern over my new 1780 stays.

 

I wanted something with back lacing and simple folded lapels like this waistcoat from the V&A.
 

I sewed the waistcoat together on the machine, but all visible stitching was done by hand. The back is one layer of linen, while the fronts are silk flatlined in linen, with an extra strip of linen down the center front for the pad stitching. The fronts are then faced with more striped silk.

To help the lapels fall nicely and to practice for my habit jacket, I made my first attempt at pad stitching. I couldn’t find hair canvas locally and was too lazy to order it online, so I used some linen from my stash as the interlining. It’s far from perfect, but I’m happy with my wonky pad stitches. And I must admit I was pleasantly surprised at the effect. It really does make a noticeable different in how the lapels fall. Well worth the effort!

 Now it’s on to buttons and buttonholes! Normally I hate buttonholes (they are so permanent!), but the back lacing gives some adjustability, so I’m not terrified that it wont fit in three months. For buttons I’m thinking cream death’s head ones, but I’m still working up the courage to try them. If all else fails, I can always just make fabric covered ones.